Knitted fabric is all around us—from cozy cardigans to high-performance sportswear. Its flexibility, softness, and breathability make it a staple in wardrobes, interior design, and even industrial applications. But what exactly is knitted fabric? How is it made, and what types are out there? This comprehensive guide will walk you through every detail you need to know.
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What Is Knitted Fabric?
Knitted fabric is a textile made by interlocking loops of yarn, creating a flexible, elastic material. Unlike woven fabrics—where threads crisscross at right angles—knitted fabrics are produced using a single yarn (or a set of yarns) that form a continuous series of loops. These loops give the fabric its unique stretch and resilience, making it ideal for clothing that needs to move with the body.
Because of this looped structure, knitted fabrics are softer and more pliable than woven ones, making them ideal for applications where comfort is key.
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A Brief History of Knitting
Ancient Origins: Early examples of knitting have been found in Egypt and date back to the 5th century. These early techniques were used to create socks and other utilitarian garments.
European Adoption: Knitting gained popularity in Europe by the 14th century. Skilled knitters were in high demand, and knitting guilds were established in cities across Spain, France, and the British Isles.
Industrial Revolution: The 19th century saw the rise of the knitting machine, particularly the circular knitting machine. This innovation revolutionized production and made knitted textiles more accessible to the masses.
Modern Day: Today, knitting combines tradition and technology. From high-speed industrial knitting machines to 3D knitting for seamless garments, the field continues to evolve.
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How Is Knitted Fabric Made?
There are two main types of knitting techniques, each producing fabrics with distinct characteristics.
Weft Knitting
In weft knitting, the yarn runs horizontally across the fabric. The loops are formed in a continuous row (course), and the yarn follows a serpentine path. This technique allows for significant horizontal stretch and drape.
Common types of weft-knitted fabrics include:
Jersey Knit: This is the most basic and widely used knit. It has a smooth front and a textured back. It's soft, stretchy, and ideal for T-shirts and lightweight dresses.
Rib Knit: Characterized by vertical "ribs" formed by alternating knit and purl stitches. It's very elastic, especially sideways, and is often used for cuffs, collars, and form-fitting garments.
Interlock Knit: A more complex knit where two rows of stitches are interlocked. This creates a thicker, smoother fabric on both sides that’s often used for polos and baby clothes.
Purl Knit: Alternates knit and purl rows on both sides, resulting in a reversible fabric with a lot of stretch and a soft texture. It’s often used in scarves and sweaters.
Weft knitting can be done both by hand and by machine.
Warp Knitting
Warp knitting involves yarns that run vertically. Each loop is made from a different yarn, and multiple yarns are used at once. This method is faster and more stable than weft knitting, but generally less elastic.
Popular warp-knit fabrics include:
Tricot: A smooth, lightweight knit often used in lingerie, linings, and activewear. It has a fine texture and resists runs and snags.
Raschel: A more open, lace-like knit that’s used in netting, lace, and mesh. Raschel machines can produce highly decorative patterns and textured surfaces.
Warp knitting is always machine-based due to its complexity.
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Types of Knitted Fabrics and Their Characteristics
Let’s break down the most common types of knitted fabrics by their structure and use:
Jersey Knit
This is the go-to fabric for basics like T-shirts and lightweight dresses. It's smooth on the front and has a slight texture on the back. While it offers good stretch and comfort, it tends to curl at the edges when cut and can be prone to pilling if made from low-quality fibers.
Rib Knit
This fabric alternates between knit and purl stitches in vertical columns. It is incredibly stretchy across the width and recovers its shape well, which makes it perfect for stretchy cuffs, neckbands, and fitted garments.
Interlock Knit
Made by interlocking two layers of jersey, this fabric is thicker, more stable, and smoother on both sides. It has less stretch than rib or single jersey but provides a more luxurious feel and excellent durability.
Purl Knit
Soft and reversible, purl knit is made by alternating rows of knit and purl stitches. This gives it a "bumpy" texture on both sides, good elasticity, and a rustic look ideal for sweaters and cardigans.
Tricot Knit
A finely-knit, smooth fabric that lies flat and doesn’t curl. It’s lightweight and breathable, often used in athletic apparel, lingerie, and linings.
Raschel Knit
This fabric has a netted or lacy appearance and is often decorative. It’s used for mesh garments, lace, trims, and sometimes heavy-duty applications like upholstery backing.
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Knitted vs. Woven Fabrics: Key Differences
While both knitted and woven fabrics are staples in fashion and textiles, they offer very different properties:
Stretch and Flexibility
Knitted fabrics are naturally stretchy due to their looped structure, especially in the horizontal direction. Woven fabrics generally have little to no stretch unless blended with elastic fibers.
Breathability
Knits are often more breathable and moisture-wicking than wovens, making them a top choice for activewear and casual garments.
Drape and Comfort
Knit fabrics drape well and move fluidly, offering a soft, clingy fit that adapts to the body. Woven fabrics hold their shape better and are ideal for structured garments like blazers and trousers.
Edge Finishing
Knits don’t fray when cut but may curl at the edges. Wovens fray easily and require hemming or serging.
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Fibers Used in Knitted Fabrics
Knitted fabrics can be made from a wide range of fibers. Here's how different fibers affect their properties:
Natural Fibers
Cotton: Soft, breathable, and ideal for casual wear. However, it can shrink and wrinkle.
Wool: Excellent for insulation, warm and moisture-wicking. Used in sweaters, scarves, and cold-weather wear.
Silk: Rare in knit form, but luxurious and soft with a beautiful drape.
Synthetic Fibers
Polyester: Durable, colorfast, quick-drying. Common in sportswear and outerwear.
Nylon: Strong, smooth, used in lingerie and performance fabrics.
Spandex (Lycra/Elastane): Provides exceptional stretch and recovery. Often blended in small amounts with other fibers.
Blends
Fiber blending is common in knits to combine the best qualities—like the softness of cotton with the stretch of spandex or the durability of polyester.
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Common Applications of Knitted Fabric
Knitted fabrics are incredibly versatile and found in almost every textile category:
Fashion & Apparel: T-shirts, dresses, leggings, sweaters, underwear, socks, and activewear.
Home Textiles: Cushion covers, throws, blankets, and bed linens.
Medical Use: Compression garments, elastic bandages, orthopedic supports.
Industrial Use: Automotive upholstery, filtration fabrics, geotextiles, and reinforcement layers.
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Advantages of Knitted Fabric
Comfortable and Flexible: Ideal for form-fitting and movement-oriented garments.
Breathable: Allows for airflow and moisture management.
Wrinkle Resistant: Knits naturally resist creasing, making them travel-friendly.
Quick-Drying: Especially when made from synthetic or blended fibers.
Non-Fraying: Unlike woven fabrics, the edges of knit fabric don’t unravel.
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Care and Maintenance Tips
To keep your knits in great condition:
Washing
Use cold or lukewarm water to prevent shrinkage.
Opt for gentle cycles or handwashing, especially for delicate items.
Turn garments inside out to protect the fabric’s surface.
Drying
Air dry flat to maintain shape.
Avoid hanging, which may stretch the fabric.
Tumble dry only if the care label permits—and then on low heat.
Storage
Fold garments neatly instead of hanging.
Store in a cool, dry place away from sunlight to prevent fading or fiber damage.
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Sustainability and Innovations
Knitted textiles are at the forefront of sustainable fashion:
3D Knitting Technologies: Allow garments to be produced with zero waste by knitting entire pieces seamlessly.
Eco-Friendly Fibers: Bamboo, organic cotton, and Tencel are increasingly used.
Recycled Yarns: Polyester from recycled plastic bottles and wool from pre-consumer waste are becoming standard in the industry.
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Final Thoughts
Knitted fabric is much more than just a cozy material. It’s a dynamic, versatile, and essential part of textile innovation, design, and comfort. By understanding how it’s made, the various types available, and how to care for it, you’re better equipped to design, wear, or shop with insight and intention.
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